The L’Oréal Lighthouse
In November, IAM, in partnership with Nigerian retailer Dunes, took their ambitions further with the opening of a dedicated L’Oréal store at Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport in Nigeria’s capital city, Abuja. The 50-square-meter boutique is devoted entirely to L’Oréal Luxe and its dermatological beauty brands, including Lancôme, YSL Beauty, Armani, Vichy, and CeraVe.
“L’Oréal wanted a flagship store where other operators could see the potential of these brands when they’re properly expressed,” Lakhwani explained. “They wanted to set a gold standard for travel retail in Africa. Think of it as a lighthouse for the industry.”
In a bid for sustainability and local empowerment, all store furniture was designed and produced in Nigeria. “Usually, for high-standard executions, furniture is imported,” Lakhwani noted. “But L’Oréal wanted us to develop it locally at an international level so we could show that Africa can meet that standard.”
The African traveler, Lakhwani and Gajjar emphasized, is evolving rapidly. “Probably in the past, you would say the African traveler was mostly a business traveler,” Lakhwani said. “But that’s changing. You now have the return of the diaspora—‘Detty December’ in Ghana and Nigeria, for instance—and far more intra-African travel. These are real shoppers.”
Gajjar added that the airport setting also reaches consumers who might otherwise remain elusive. “The ultrarich in Africa often don’t shop in malls for reasons like convenience, security, or culture,” he explained. “Opening at the airport gives us access to that demographic. Then you have passengers from neighboring countries like Benin, Togo, and Côte d’Ivoire who don’t have access to these brands locally. It’s a whole new customer base.”
For Scentopia, translating its high-touch land retail experience to an airport environment required precision. “The difference is in speed,” said Gajjar. “At an airport, the time you have with a customer can be very short, or if they’ve arrived early, very long. So, our beauty advisers must be agile enough to deliver both quick and in-depth experiences.”
Product curation is equally crucial. “At airports, travel-size products become essential,” he added. “If you don’t stock a 30 ml moisturizer that fits in a handbag, you lose a sale. It’s those details that define success in travel retail.”
Navigating Economic Realities
Of course, launching luxury retail ventures in markets like Nigeria and Ghana comes with challenges, from currency fluctuations to import costs. Yet Lakhwani remained optimistic. “You have to take a long-term view,” he said. “When you look at the top-end brands, their customers remain consistent regardless of devaluation. And when you look at mass brands, they stay steady too. It’s often the middle that’s affected, but overall, Africa is one of the most exciting places to do business right now.”
Gajjar agreed, emphasizing that pricing strategy in travel retail is a balance, not a bargain. “It’s a myth that airports are always cheaper,” he said. “At Scentopia, we align our pricing with international markets like London or Paris because consumers today are too knowledgeable. The difference isn’t in price; it’s in exclusivity. Our airport stores offer travel retail-only products like miniatures and special gift sets.”
Scentopia’s move into travel retail is only the beginning. Both executives hinted at future expansions into other African airports as opportunities arise. “When the right location appears, we’ll enter,” said Gajjar. “Airports are a critical part of our long-term growth strategy.”
Lakhwani added that Africa’s broader retail landscape remains fertile. “This is probably the market where you see the most new stores opening,” he said. “In Europe, a lot of doors are closing, but here, we’re building. We’re seeing reforms, new malls, and new infrastructure. It’s a super exciting place to be.”
As air travel and affluence rise, Africa’s airports could soon become as synonymous with luxury beauty as Dubai or Singapore. For consumers, that means a new kind of journey—one that begins not at check-in but at the fragrance or beauty counter.
